Fit. That was the over-riding sense that the spectators were left with after Astrid Andersen’s first catwalk show outside of MAN. To be fair, Andersen is known for her street-cast gang of hardened models, and this season didn’t disappoint. Neither did the collection; after a slightly underwhelming AW showing back in January, Andersen was back on form with her signature sportswear (by sportswear, I’m talking shapes like jogging trousers, sweatshirts, gym shorts, hoodies) remixed into a sharply futuristic collection of contrast panelling and unusual materials like crushed velvet, sheer lace and neoprene-alike stiff cotton. This collection looked at Andersen’s vision of hyper-masculinity through a resolutely feminine lens, and the effect was nothing short of superb: luxe, sexy and sharp, this redefined our love for Andersen’s work, and showed that what could ostensibly seem like simple shapes, once perfected, are impossible to equal. Well done Astrid!

Words: Seb Law

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