In a performance space set to thumping techno, the rave returned in LUEDER’s AW25 collection.
‘The Shell’ was not just a runway presentation—it was an odyssey into the heart of nightlife, a hypnotic immersion into the club’s pulsating core. Staged within a ‘club within a club,’ LUEDER crafted an experience as much as a collection, dissolving the line between performer and audience in an electrifying fusion of music, movement, and fashion.
With the enigmatic DJ duo Two Shell orchestrating the sensory symphony and Tom Schneider’s set design shaping the dreamlike haze, the result was a thrilling meditation on transformation and escapism.
‘The Shell’ is LUEDER at its most dynamic—redefining identity through layered constructions that peel away like metaphorical second skins. Inspired by the decadence of 19th-century interiors, the collection reimagines tapestry, embroidered curtains, and intricate carpet motifs through a dystopian lens. Engineered cotton jeans appear weathered and lived-in, while semi-sheer Lycra embossed with tartan introduces an unexpected sportswear element. LUEDER’s fascination with historical references is not simply aesthetic; it is a conceptual reworking of the past to inform the future.
This season, LUEDER furthers its commitment to sustainability and innovation with leathers repurposed from meat industry by-products and luxurious yet eco-conscious fake fur derived from wood pulp. The collection’s vision of metrosexuality is indulgent and fluid, embracing elegance with a rebellious edge. Perhaps the most compelling innovation is the introduction of a shape-shifting trouser silhouette—a bold subversion of the skinny jean, complete with a removable overlay for seamless adaptability between slim and straight-leg fits. LUEDER proves that functionality need not come at the expense of style; instead, it enhances the wearer’s agency over their own sartorial identity.
The collection is rich with callbacks to LUEDER’s past signatures. Upcycled Phantasy T-shirts, refreshed with cascading inserts, and engineered-fit garment-dyed joggers reaffirm the brand’s commitment to sustainability through reinvention. Folkloric and medieval dress codes subtly inform the layered compositions, grounding the collection in historical craftsmanship while keeping it resolutely modern.
Pushing technological boundaries, LUEDER introduces 3D-printed designs in collaboration with Italian experts Stratasys. The tactile, waste-conscious prints add a hypermodern dimension to the garments, creating a multi-sensory fashion experience.
Other collaborations enrich the collection further: BAD (bodyamplificationdevice) brings futuristic rubber clogs; Track7 lends bold slogan pieces; and textile artist Ben Grund contributes intricate tapestry prints that weave historical narrative into contemporary streetwear.
Visually, ‘The Shell’ is anchored in a muted, almost monochromatic palette, punctuated by LUEDER’s signature rose print—a motif that bridges past and present, drawing from delicate antique handkerchiefs yet reinterpreted through the sharp lens of modern emoji culture. The collection thrives in this interplay between nostalgia and futurism, indulgence and restraint, structure and fluidity.
With ‘The Shell,’ LUEDER cements its position as a visionary force in fashion, proving that clothing is more than fabric—it is an evolving dialogue between identity, time, and cultural codes.
In a world that often feels rigidly defined, LUEDER offers an alternative: a space where self-expression reigns supreme, and transformation is not just possible, but inevitable. Even at 11am.
images: ©Olu Ogunshakin / Chris Yates Media
