Ray Chu’s SS26 collection arrives like the tide at dusk – fluid, luminous, and impossibly alive.
Drawing inspiration from the mystical “blue tears” that shimmer along Taiwan’s midnight shores, the collection is a meditation on resilience and unyielding spirit, translating poetic coastal narratives into sculpted tailoring and innovative fabrics.
At the heart of the collection is the brand’s signature suiting, redefined with structured shoulders and cinched waists, creating silhouettes that are both powerful and fluid. Swarovski crystals, gemstone embellishments, layered textile treatments, and bonding techniques transform pieces like into radiant, statement-making forms. Familiar drapes and shapes are reimagined through crystal formations, catching light with a dynamic, almost hypnotic brilliance.
Sustainability remains a core tenet of the collection, with plant-based upcycled fabrics woven throughout. Sensory details are introduced through mint-scented textiles and cooling plant fiber jerseys, while lace, hook-and-stud trims, and chain embellishments enrich the textures. Every piece balances conscious craftsmanship with creativity, proving that eco-conscious design need not compromise spectacle.
SS26’s colour palette spans fiery reds, cornflower blues, and striking lemon yellows, blending vibrancy with refined sophistication. Collaborations with artist Peng Cong bring fresh prints that explore micro and macro perspectives – from the adaptive transformations of tiny luminous species to the intricate details of unseen ecologies. Together, these motifs evoke a tenacious yet effortless energy, championing inclusivity, gender fluidity, and self-expression.
The show expands beyond clothing with Chu’s first eyewear collaboration with Victor Wong. Sculptural frames fuse Wong’s “W” silhouette with Chu’s signature use of colour, and interchangeable floral accents nod to the twilight coastal inspirations of the collection, turning functional eyewear into an avant-garde statement.
Playfulness also emerges in the ongoing collaboration with TENGA Japan. Sculptural pieces inspired by the brand’s iconic cups echo the oceanic narrative, while cheeky prints and the slogan Spill the T – a double entendre referencing both TENGA and gossip – infuse the runway with wit, humor, and energy.
SS26 is storytelling in motion, where emotional depth, environmental responsibility, and technical innovation converge. From luminous suiting to whimsical prints and sculptural accessories, Chu’s latest collection proves that fashion can be both poetic and powerful – a celebration of craft, culture, and the ever-changing tides of his imagination.
Images: © Olu Ogunshakin / Chris Yates Media
